Slovakia - the former Czechoslovakia's less glamourous partner, emerged dishevelled and sleepy after the 'Velvet Revolution' of 1989. Although it's now holding its own in a rebuilding Eastern bloc, there's a refreshing absence of Prague-style glitz and clamour. This is a land of real spirit, where folk traditions have survived the domination of foreign rulers and a plethora of castles and chateaux pay testament to untold wars and civil conflicts. And the people have come through it all with their welcoming spirit intact.