Ireland - is knee deep in charm. Although this largely rural nation has transformed itself over the past couple of decades into one of Europe's biggest economic successes, it hasn't lost its friendly ways or its links with its traditional culture. The tourist trade may play up the crowd pleasers, from medieval banquets to Riverdance-style step dancers, but if you get away from the well-trodden tourist areas, you'll see that the charm doesn't end. There is still town after town filled with brightly painted buildings and crowded with cheeky kids in school uniforms. In even the most out-of-the-way pub you're likely to find someone playing an accordion or fiddle or simply singing with no accompaniment at all. Most everywhere, the pace of life is relaxed, and people take time for an amiable chat.